Lately, the southern French port metropolis of Marseille—the nation’s second-largest metropolis—has change into an more and more engaging hub for artists and cultural employees. Town’s designation because the European Capital of Tradition in 2013 helped spur its rise as a creative vacation spot, and since then, the dance world has been waking as much as its inventive vitality.
The Pageant de Marseille, for instance, has featured sturdy dance programming for years, however its present inventive staff has helped it appeal to extra worldwide programmers and journalists. The Ballet Nationwide de Marseille has additionally taken a daring new course below the management of the experimental collective (LA)Horde, producing edgy performances drawing on internet-native types like jumpstyle and TikTok choreography. Dancers and choreographers are relocating to town too, from European stars like Northern Irish choreographer Oona Doherty, who moved there in 2023, to rising artists.
May town be on its method to turning into a significant European dance hub?
House to Go Unsuitable
Whereas Marseille’s heat local weather and coastal location are pure attracts, it’s not simply the setting that’s pulling dancers to town. Andrew Graham, co-founder of L’Autre Maison, an organization targeted on preventing social exclusion within the cultural sector, moved to Marseille in 2018 after 11 years in London, three of which included dancing with inclusive firm Candoco. “All the pieces was so precarious” in London, he says: There, he had had three-month jobs canceled simply two weeks earlier than they had been because of begin, and securing residencies and funding to create his personal work was troublesome. “All the pieces obtained fairly darkish,” provides Solène Weinachter, who’s at present primarily based between Glasgow and Marseille. She cites Brexit, the financial disaster, and present international conflicts as elements making life more and more arduous for UK-based artists.
Against this, in Marseille, there’s a large availability of studios—at venues like KLAP Maison pour la Danse and La Friche, a former tobacco-factory—that may be rented at no cost or little or no cash. “It permits a sure tradition of experimentation that’s troublesome in London,” Graham explains. “I really feel like I can go unsuitable. It permits me to create uncommon work.”
With the ability to share that work with French audiences is one other plus. “There’s an actual custom right here of seeing tradition as a part of the social lifetime of the citizen,” says Amit Noy, a dancer and choreographer who was raised in Hawaii and Aotearoa (New Zealand) and who arrived in Marseille in the summertime of 2023. Consequently, reveals are sometimes offered out and appeal to numerous crowds. “Individuals are used to being spectators and being in entrance of difficult work,” says Graham. “They’ve actually attention-grabbing suggestions to provide.”

Solidarity and Resilience
A widespread appreciation for the humanities in France has lengthy been fostered by beneficiant monetary investments in tradition. “Within the [19]90s, an obscene sum of money was poured into dance,” says Israeli choreographer Emanuel Gat, who has been primarily based within the Marseille space for 17 years. However the nation isn’t the utopia it as soon as was. Like throughout the remainder of Europe, “you’ll be able to actually really feel it tightening up in all places,” Gat says.
Regardless of challenges, “the impartial scene [in Marseille] could be very resilient,” says Weinachter. “Dancing will be filled with solidarity. Even when it’s difficult, everybody’s banding collectively.” She highlights others who’ve made Marseille a house base, together with Sati Veyrunes, a daily collaborator with Doherty, and Jean-Daniel (JD) Broussé, co-founder of the queer cabaret Shit Present. Graham additionally notes fellow former London resident Anne-Gaëlle Thiriot, who co-founded Le FIL, a collection of month-to-month somatic-training workshops within the metropolis. And initiatives like France’s intermittent du spectacle—an unemployment-insurance program for freelance artists and leisure employees—assist present a level of stability for Marseille’s dance neighborhood, too.
From Transience to Belonging
Many Marseille-based artists journey incessantly to work on tasks elsewhere. Noy, for instance, frequently travels to Eire to bounce with choreographer Michael Keegan-Dolan. Nonetheless, choreographers like Gat are adapting their practices to assist create a stronger area people of dancers. “For round 15 years, my dancers had been unfold throughout Europe. We solely got here collectively for creation processes or excursions,” he explains. “For my subsequent manufacturing, I’m asking that candidates reside right here, so the studio relationship can lengthen into actual life.”
Noy has additionally appreciated latest alternatives to work extra regionally. This yr, he’s being supported partially by Parallèle, which mounts an annual pageant with a program for choreographers from the South of France, the Center East, and North Africa, targeted on rooting them within the area. His most up-to-date work, Good Luck, was rehearsed completely within the metropolis, the place it was lately introduced at Actoral—a fall pageant that additionally runs residencies and performances all year long. “It was improbable,” he says. “I might work and nonetheless be at residence, which I choose to having to go away my life behind.”

Malleable, Not Mapped Out
Regardless of effervescent inventive exercise, the programming and coaching alternatives in Marseille are comparatively condensed in comparison with different dance capitals. Noy notes that the majority festivals are itinerant (with out devoted efficiency areas), and that few have year-round programming. That may truly be a optimistic factor for dancers. “It’s not too overwhelming or insular, and you may even have a life outdoors of dance,” Noy says.
The dearth of oversaturation additionally implies that artists who transfer there really feel like they’re constructing one thing. “When you’re in Paris, it’s a bit like ‘How can I carve out an area for myself?’ ” says Noy. “It’s been the locus of a extremely centralized nation for lots of of years. Marseille feels extra malleable. There’s extra of a spirit of doing issues your self.”
This malleability is strengthened by Marseille’s vibrant cultural make-up, which incorporates sturdy communities from North Africa and the Center East. It’s exactly this variety that makes town so engaging to artists. Graham, for instance, appreciates the connections town has to components of the world he wasn’t uncovered to in London. “There’s a way of town as a gathering level for a lot of totally different communities and cultures,” says Noy. “That’s the type of place I wish to be.”
